BOB - DIY Customised Kit | 9'6" or 10'
Regular price $501.80Description
About the Bob 9'6" or 10'
The Bob board is named after Robert August and inspired by some of his boards.
With a low roll through the nose to a low roll middle out to a low rolled V in the tail this is one of the smoothest boards rail to rail you will find.
Probably one of the most versatile boards in the Bywater collection; handles well in anything from 1’ Beaches to 5’ at the Pass at Byron. Pulled in outline with beach break rocker for racier sections and late takeoffs. Great for tube rides, nose rides if you add a concave to the front, and performance surfing!
- You can build your own custom board either 9'6" or 10' x 22 1/4" x 2 3/4"
- Weight: Your board should end up at under 1 Kg per foot depending on your external finish
- Suits waves 1' - 6'
- Ability to modify the bottom contours with more concaves if that is what you are after
- The Bob is available in both our Premium Kit and DIY Customised Kit. Unsure which Kit to purchase? Compare our Kits to find out more details, or check out the Premium Kit here.
Inclusions
The DIY Customised Kit includes:
1:1 Full Size scale paper plans
To mark out the rails, ribs, nose and tail blocks – specific to the selected board style
Paulownia for Rails
2 / 200 x 8mm of Rough sawn Paulownia that will need to be machined to 6mm and cut into 6 individual rails
Plywood panel for Ribs and Frame Stand
External hardwood to be cut to size using the 1:1 full-size paper plans
Nose & Tail Blocks
150 x 38mm Rough sawn timber to be cut to size using the 1:1 paper plans
Paulownia for Skins
6 / 200 x 8mm Rough sawn Paulownia to be machined to 4mm ready to be glued together
Instruction PDF
A comprehensive, step by step instruction guide with photos, delivered via email as a PDF
Compare Kits
Should I buy the Premium Kit or Customised DIY Kit?
Simply; the Premium Kit is recommended for Beginners/Intermediate and first time board makers, while the DIY Customised Kit is recommended to experienced woodworkers or someone who has attended one of our in person courses. The Premium Kit has more inclusions with materials that are pre-prepped, eliminating the need to have access to certain machinery, reducing prep time and allows you to jump straight into the frame assembly.
The DIY Customise kit includes the bare bones un-prepped materials with more scope to customise and truly ‘do-it-yourself.’ You will be making your board from scratch with more scope to customise your board and use the 1:1 paper plans as guide.
Both kits will include our comprehensive step by step Instruction guide in PDF format.
Across our 8 different surfboard styles, you can choose either Premium Kit or DIY Customised Kit, depending on your needs.
Accessories
There are required parts you will need to complete your board, but some of these you may want to source yourself:
| Item | Description |
| Internal Fiberglass | We use 4oz fiberglass to strengthen the internal of our boards. The fiberglass for the internal of surfboard is 1 layer on the inside of the bottom and 2 layers on the inside of the deck. The extra layer of fiberglass cloth is creating a lot of strength on the deck. |
| Breather Fabric (for vacuum) | This fabric will allow the air to flow evenly throughout the board without obstruction and with an even pressure within the vacuum bag. |
| Brass Screw Vent and Rubber Seal | This is essential for every board, the course wood screw thread is designed to screw into the timber which then allows the Brass screw bung to be taken in and out when the board is out of the water. |
| Plastic Vacuum Bag | The Vacuum bags we supply are an open ended bag cut to length for you, they are to be used to hold enough air pressure to pull the skins down onto the ribs and rails of the internal frame. |
| Vacuum Connection for Bag | The plastic valve connection is designed to be used in conjunction with our vacuum bag in the vacuum process, this valve is a one way valve allowing air to be removed from the bag and not allow the air back into the bag, sucking the skins down onto the internal timber surfboard frame. |
| 2 x Tape | These 2 tapes are used at different times of the process of building your wooden surfboard and should not be substituted with inferior quality tape. The yellow tape is used for gluing the skins together and stopping resin from running through and holes The brown tape is for taping (aka strapping) the nose and tail into position while the glue goes off, it is also used in the vacuum process to pull the skins down onto the rails. |
| Plastic Leash Plug | The plastic leash plug is a standard plug easily glued into any surfboard, once the glue if off the plug is then sanded down flush with the board to glass the board, we only supply the black plug. |
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Brass Leash Plug |
Stuart designed this Brass Leash plug for not only practical purposes but for an easy install into hollow boards to glue in with very little clean up after. The top flange is only 1 mm thick so with the glass and resin on the deck it easily becomes flush when it is sanded flush and buffed. In a beautiful wall hanger, it definitely adds that bling that comes with glossy timber and shiny brass. If left unfinished or used a lot it will tarnish giving the board an old school nautical vibe. |
| Brass Vent |
If you want a vent and chose a brass leash plug then a brass vent is for you. You do not need a vent if you have a bung and every board needs a bung, but it will give you time carrying your board in the heat before you need to take the bung out, allowing you to walk back around to that point before you jump off the rocks back for another wave, or you hope out of the water take the bung out, walk out to the point put the bung back in and off you go, your decision whatever works for you and where you surf . |
| 140 Pack of Pegs |
These pegs are you extra light clamps for your rails, I have tried a few brands and sizes but I have found these give the best pressure and last the longest. |
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| Sandpaper |
We will supply you with enough paper to sand your board rails, decks and a design for an easy to make sanding board for your desks, I also show you the best way to sand your board in the video tutorials. |
| Safety Glasses |
You only need one eye to see, but two to really look Take care of your eyes, the resins, fiberglass and glues can easily destroy your eyes if you get dust or fibres in them, if you don’t buy these glasses please make sure you get some from somewhere. |
| Dust Mask |
The paulownia dust is very fine and can choke your lungs when sanding it, I leave the sanding till the end and probably only sand the timber when the board is finished and for about 3 hours. Once the resin is on the timber the board is then sanded again the resin dust is not good for you so please where a mask of some sort. |
| T-Shirt |
Our "Wave Of Tradition" Tees After 3 years these Tees are getting close to the end of the run, we print no more than 200 of each design and we have limited numbers left. A new design is in the works. |
| Centre Fin Box and Timbers | Centre and supporting timbers are available or you can purchase your own FCS finbox to put in. |
| LHS and RHS Finbox | FCS LHS and RHS finbox. |
Other
Resin and Adhesive Glue will need to be sourced independently from a supplier. We use and recommend:
Techniglue CA ER60 Epoxy Resin: which can be purchased directly from Nightingale Supply here
Surfset Flex Clear Resin: which can be purchased directly from Sanded here
For a full list of other materials and equipment need to make a wooden surfboard please view the FAQ page.